Getting around
Istanbulkart is your golden ticket. You can grab one at almost every tram stop (no need to queue at the airport unless you’re taking the metro) and top it up as you go. One card covers up to five people and works on metros, buses and ferries.
Airport taxis cost roughly ₺2,000 to Sultanahmet (check the official airport fare list first). Drivers can be… let’s say “spirited”—expect weaving and hard-shoulder overtakes.
Where I Stayed
I booked the RW Boutique Hotel, two minutes’ walk from Sultanahmet Square. Rooms are compact but comfortable, breakfast on the rooftop terrace is simple and excellent, and you step straight into the tourist heart of the city.
Water Views on a Budget
Skip the €25 Bosphorus sightseeing boats unless you crave a live commentary. Regular public ferries cost about £0.80 with your Istanbulkart and give you the same sea breeze and skyline for a fraction of the price.
Eating Out
Menus on the European side look alike: classic Turkish staples with a few token pizzas and past dishes on the later pages. What I loved:
- Complimentary bread.
- Consistent pricing: dishes cost about what you’d pay in a Turkish restaurant back in the UK.
- My favourite meat was a standard chicken (the same in many places).
- Turkish bulgur pilaf – bulghur wheat dish that I could eat bowls of.
Crossing to Asia
The Kadıköy side feels refreshingly local—lower prices, relaxed streets and high-street shops that could be anywhere in Britain. No one hustles you into their café every two steps. Apart from the famous bull statue, the appeal here is simply wandering, snacking and shopping.
What to See (and What I Skipped)
| Attraction | Price* | My Verdict |
| Blue Mosque | Free | Vast, peaceful, photogenic. Women cover head/shoulders; everyone covers legs. |
| Hagia Sophia | €30 | Skipped—budget prioritising and long queues. |
| Hagia Sophia Experience Museum | €30 | Skipped—budget prioritising. |
| Basilica Cistern | €30 | Loved the moody lighting and cool underground air. |
| Archaeological Museum | €20 | Pots overload, but the statue collection makes it worthwhile. |
| Topkapi Palace | €30 | Skipped—budget prioritising. |
| Galata Tower | €30 | Highest viewpoint in the city; essential for skyline shots. |
| Chora (Kariye) Mosque | €30 | Arrived too late; peeked at the stunning mosaics through the door. |
| Dolmabahçe Palace | €48 | Skipped—budget prioritising. |
I limited myself to four paid sites and felt that was enough; at €25 a pop the costs mount fast.
Quick Notes on the Highlights
- Blue Mosque – 30 minutes inside is plenty. Birds circle the vaulted ceiling; the courtyard stalls sell books and souvenirs. Beautifully lit after dark.
- Basilica Cistern – 1 hour inside it fine. Atmospheric columns reflected in shallow water; bring a camera that handles low-light.
- Archaeological Museum – Allow 2–3 hours. When you reach pottery fatigue, Gülhane Park is right next door for fresh air.
- Galata Tower – Crowded but unmissable panoramic views of the Bosphorus and Golden Horn.
Bazaar Culture
- Grand Bazaar – A maze of near-identical stalls; easy to get happily lost.
- Spice (Egyptian) Bazaar – Smaller, calmer, and my preference for browsing.
Be ready for déjà vu: every fifth shop sells the same scarves, lamps or sweets.
Buying Gold & Jewellery
With no VAT you save 20 % straight away. For peace of mind, head to Nuru Osmaniye Caddesi just outside the Grand Bazaar—essentially a “gold district” with live price boards. You’ll also see daily gold rates displayed in many exchange bureaus.
Final Thoughts
I arrived eager for Byzantium and imperial history; I left feeling Istanbul has packed its heritage into a pricey, tightly focused zone. Everything in Sultanahmet is walkable—great for time-strapped visitors—but the density, high entry fees and relentless touting can be exhausting.
Practical downsides:
- Distance from the new airport – 1.5 hours by car, with no direct public transport to the centre.
- Constant invitations – Every restaurant or shop greeter calls you in; part of the culture, but overwhelming.
That said, an Istanbulkart, a ferry ride, a string of grilled kebabs and the call to prayer echoing over the Bosphorus still make the city unforgettable—just budget wisely and venture beyond the tourist core whenever you can.
I leave you with views from Galata Tower
